Good afternoon everyone,
We have written before in these pages of an aspect of the hospitality industry which we really value, staging, the practice of professional bakers or chefs undertaking informal, unpaid work experience as a way of gaining inspiration, learning new skills and exchanging ideas. Our current stagier, Remy, is joining us from New York, having worked at the River Cafe inspired King, and more recently the three Michelin starred fine dining institution, Le Bernardin. Over this weekend, Remy introduced us to the American classic, coffee cake. Somewhat confusingly, the cake doesn't contain coffee but rather is designed to be eaten with coffee. Remy's version was enriched with creme fraiche, and topped with walnut and cinnamon streusel. As with many of our favourite cakes, it has the happy knack of an unassuming, beige appearance (see pic above) which belies it's moist, moreish, deliciousness. It will be on the counter next week, to be joined by hazelnut thumbprint cookies, custard cake, and our latest iteration of the cream bun, this time with strawberry compote. Although undoubtedly rich, these cream buns are fairly restrained in terms of sweetness, so if you did want to push the boat out they might pair quite nicely with a glass of one of our all time favourite wines, the Pink Bulles pet nat of Jean Maupertuis. It's always a happy day when James from importer Les Caves de Pyrene emails to announce the arrival of the new vintage. The '24 looks to be very pale pink, so expect strawberry flecked fruit, delicate bubbles and that characteristic, stony minerality deriving from the rich volcanic soils of the Auvergne, which elevate this wine beyond the realms of a fun fizz to something really compelling. As always numbers will be limited.
Also on the counter this week, keep an eye out for the successor to the cheese turnovers. It's been a while since we had a savoury, meat-free vehicle for our puff pastry. We're now trialling some open top tarts, or galettes, with various fillings eg new potatoes and creme fraiche, chard and leeks, asparagus and Ogleshield (pictured above) - you get the idea.
On the cold plate we're happy to welcome a brand new cheese, to us at least. Hidcote is a soft sheep's milk cheese made by David Jowett at King Stone Dairy in Gloucestershire. Lydia tells us it's on top form, exhibiting a "mushroomy minerality with a definite taste of seaweed". Also mentioned in the Neal's Yard Dairy dispatches was Yoredale, and we never need much persuading to welcome back this eminently sessionable Wensleydale, with it's smooth paste, yoghurty acidity, and savoury, nutty notes. Finally, Hugo wishes to put a word in for Tarantais. This squat little barrel shaped goat's cheese from Haut-Garonne in Southwest France is an absolute flavour bomb. The method of production is somewhat unusual, three separate batches of curd are drained and matured for a number of days before being folded together like a cake mix. The result is a combination of fresh, tart acidity in the centre, with a savoury, buttery breakdown around the edge and a positively feral, farmy rind. It's a trip.
Oh, and this week's ice cream sanwich is brazil nut caramel.
Thanks as always for reading and coming to see us,
Very best,
Kate and Hugo