Though once the staple snack of miners and local farmhands, by the mid-19th century production of Caerphilly cheese had all but disappeared from its South Wales homeland. Across the border in Somerset, however, the style lived on thanks to the region's Cheddar makers, who adopted it as a quicker-maturing cheese that could provide a steady stream of income while the Cheddars aged. After working here at Neal's Yard Dairy, Todd Trethowan learnt the art of Caerphilly making from Chris Duckett, a renowned Somerset cheesemaker, before moving back to Wales to set up a dairy on his parents' land, making cheese with locally sourced milk. In 2014, ever intent on improving the quality of their cheese, Todd and his brother Maugan moved to Puxton Farm in Somerset, where the owner of a herd of organically reared Holstein and Jersey cows whose milk showed great potential was open to a partnership. There, the brothers set about recreating the exact microclimate needed for Caerphilly – complete with the latent bacteria unique to their old dairy in South Wales, which lends the distinctive grey velvet rind to their cheese. Bar the stirring of the milk, the cheese is made entirely by hand, then aged in their maturing rooms for three to four months – almost twice the length of time of its modern equivalents. The result is a Caerphilly that unites the best of both Welsh and Somerset traditions in cheese.